May
21
2010
Journey into Inca Country – Cusco
Author: JesseI could attempt to say that my experience in and around Cusco has been the most memorable and rewarding of my trip but, looking back, each place, person, sight, and sound will hold a special place in my heart and has helped make me who I am today.
The weeklong journey, culminating in the breath-taking and spine-tingling visit to Salkantay and Machu Picchu, began with the roughest bussing experience I have had in nearly 10,000km. There was no cama (bed) option and it was hot, smelly, dirty, and occassionally peligroso.
Our (Javi and I) first bus trip had a stop in Calama, a city an hour outside of San Pedro. The bus dropped us off on a random corner, a few blocks away from anything resembling a company or inclusive bus terminal. There were drunks yelling and partying in the street while eyes were on us with sticky fingers floating everywhere as we tried to walk confidently to an alley that seemed to house our next bus to Arica. Once confirmed, we literally hid behind the bus until boarding.
We arrived in Arica at 6am and were told to stay in the domestic terminal and NOT CROSS THE STREET until the sun began to shed light on the area between here and the international terminal. We did as we were told and walked with purpose when we felt the time was right. The only way to cross the border here is by collectivo, a taxi that packed in as many people as possible and escorted you through each immigration point.
It was all rather dull until, after we left the Peru checkpoint, we pulled off the road, everyone else got out of the car, the driver popped the hood, and they began pulling out chickens wrapped in newspaper and tossed them into the trunk. Once in Tacna we had to shed these poor guys from the tops of our bags in order to move on.
From Tacna we had two more buses and 22 hours (Tacna to Arequipa and Arequipa to Cusco) before being able to rest again. The seats were stiff and the roads consistently bendy. To make things worse wine isn’t offered or served on board like in Argentina. But, after about 36 total bussing hours, we survived and rolled into the Inca capital at 6am. Thanks to the “pachamama”, our hostel accepted us early and we slept like babies for three hours until Javier’s friend, Vanessa, was due to arrive from Barcelona.
Our first day together, as three, was spent at a lunch of delicious alpaca saltado, receiving a 20 soles ($7) one hour full body massage (all in the same room, worth the $7 IMO), visiting the main market, and buying or first bits of authentic Peruvian Alpaca clothing for ourselves and as gifts. Otherwise, the night ended rather promptly as Vanessa was working with at least a 6 jet lag. Javier and I were also a bit tired from our limited rest journey the day before as well. The next morning we would search out where and how and when our trek into the Sacred Valley would commence.
There are four general options: Classic Inca (which needs to be reserved about 2-3 months in advance and costs at least $500), a 2-day shortened Inca trail, Ausangate (which may not end in Agua Calientes and is 7 nights as well as the hardest), and Salkantay. At $240, we chose Salkantay. It is a 4night/5day, all-inclusive trek through the Salkantay pass that finishes in Agua Calientes, the pueblito built into the mountains below Machu Picchu. The company we went with was Ecotrail Peru.
After getting all the details we decided to book a quick city tour as well and come back to pay, rent equipment, and buy snacks (meals and tent were included). The tour began in the Church of Santo Domingo which was built in the 17th century over the Incaic walls of Qoricancha, or Temple of the Sun. The stonework of this temple is considered Cusco’s best and even withstood the major earthquake in 1950 when Santo Domingo collapsed and had to be rebuilt.
We then made our way up to one the hills overlooking the city on the outskirts of town to a ceremonial Inca sight named Sacsayhuaman. Not only is this sight popular for its views but also its hugely impressive walls. There are three that run parallel for over 360m and have individual stones weighing as much as 130 tons – Imagine the process of moving just one!
From here we continued along this hilltop road to the embalming temple and amphitheater of Qenqo (sorry about the lack of photos that were worthy of putting up here):
And then to the mesenger post and fortress of Puka Pukara:
And finally to the spring shrine, or youth fountain, name Tambo Machay:
The tour cost $40 when all was said and done, but definitely worth it if just for the history to prepare us for the journey we would soon be embarking on. After we were let off by the tour guide we had a final dinner, purchased our snacks, obtained equipment (head lanterns and sleeping bag), and packed our day bags so they were ready to leave when we woke up. I set the alarm for 4:00am and we did our best to get the most out of a five hour window for sleep before making our way to Salkantay.
